Sunday, April 22, 2007

Culoz to La Balmes les Grottes / Travers (85 km)

Rhone River outside CulozThere are quiet backroads through the French countryside, quaint villages, and many opportunities to travel close to the river. This stage is reasonably flat and not overly difficult. However, on the day we did the ride, the headwind was strong, making it not as pleasant as it could be.

Crossing to the western side of the Rhone at either Seyssel, or Culoz, follow D992 to Belley (18 kms). As with many sections of the ride from here on, it is possible to follow the unpaved service roads on the banks of the Rhone for much of this part, if you choose.

Waterfall at GlandieuFrom Belley, head towards les Eccassas, Brens (24 kms), Chantmerie, then Peyrieu (30 kms). The next town to aim for is Murs-et-Gélignieux - you can get there from Peyrieu either by climbing over the hill, passing through the village of Fay, or following close the river on or near the D992. After Gélignieux (37 kms), take the D19c passing through la Bruyère and Brégnier-Cordon. In the next town, Glandieu (42 kms), there is a waterfall by the main road that is worth a stop. There are also some nice looking restaurants in town.

Le Port de GrosléeContinue on the D19 to St-Benoit (47 kms) and le Port de Groslée (50 kms). Here there are some nice parks on the banks of the Rhone, and a restaurant. Although it was after 1pm, and we were hungry, we kept going along the D19 to Flevieu, where we stopped for a nice lunch and refill of our water bottles. Keep following the D19 through Briord, Serrières-de-Briord (64 kms), the Barrage de Villebois, Sault-Brénaz (70 kms) and Saint-Sorlin (75 kms).

Grottes-de-la-BalmeFollowing the D40a, take the next bridge across the Rhone, towards La Balmes les Grottes (82 kms). This town has some famous caves that are probably well worth visiting. However, being time-limited, we pressed on to the accommodation we had booked in Travers (85 kms), conveniently located on the bike path. Here we stayed at the lovely chambre et table d’hôtes at Chez Sylvie, TraversChez Sylvie. The beautiful farmhouse and gardens of Sylvie and her husband Didier, provided a perfect place to rest, and to practice our French. The evening meal, eaten with the Didier family on their terrace, was absolutely fantastic, as was the breakfast the next day.

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